On the morning of the 8th of April, after a fitful night sleeping between the ice growling its way past the hull, I get out to survey the damage. There is none. Not a mark at all. Just a lot of noise, and a kind of music sometime sounding like the beating of a drum made by the small waves slapping the ice against the hull. In the early predawn darkness, I imaged it to be the spirit of an ancient Hiawatha letting me know I’m being watch as I sail his “Big Sea Water” and that I had best tread lightly and with deep respect as I glide over the watery graves of those who have perished here, for they are many.
And then the sun rises. Daylight reveals ice all along the shore of Sand Island, though most of the floating ice has moved on its way to where ever ice goes to die in the spring time of the year. It’s now I can see the wonderful sea caves carved in the cliff by many storms and winds of the past. This was the perfect anchorage for the first night of my voyage.
I get underway by “sailing out” the anchor which means I don’t start the motor. I just let the boat sail back and forth on its anchor line each time there is slack I take it up until the anchor comes free, then, its hurry back to the helm before the boat is caught “in irons”, or sails backward out of control.
Deeper into the Apostle Island is only more ice so it’s time again for change. I set course for Grand Marais, Minnesota on the northwest shore. Why? Why not, that’s the way the winds want to blow me and I’ve never been to Grand Marais, Minnesota. When one has cast fate to the wind, change comes easy and the freedom is delicious to go where one has never been, arrive at the wind’s good pleasure in a snug safe little harbor then sleep the succulent sleep only a sailor can know.
I make it into the harbor and tie up after having sailed 52.8. Nautical miles. The GPS tells me I have sailed exactly 100 miles since departing.
A beautiful sight to end an amazing first day!
Tommy, I am stationed with Dave in Oakland and am thrilled to watch your voyage…. I really do not love sailing or being in the water myself but can easily imagine the excitement and thrill of you lifetime adventure. I was stationed up in Port Clarence, AK back in the 80’s.. not sure if you have been there but that is about 100 miles or so north of Nome.. I am sure you would be welcomed there. I wish you the best and look forward to watching your journey. Fair winds and following seas.
Hi Tommy! Long time, no see!
What an absolutely incredible journey you’ve undertaken, no doubt a dream of yours for a long time. I can honestly say I’m quite envious!
Since leaving Clean Sound, I’ve wondered what you’ve been up to. I heard that you and Capt. Lem had spent some time down in Louisiana after Hurricane Katrina. I was down there as well, for two weeks shy of a year.
Our “home port” right now is Kennewick, WA, although we’re living in Kincardine, ON Canada for the foreseeeable future. I took a job as a Project Manager at Bruce Power, a nuclear power plant that supplies 20% of electricity to the entire province of Ontario. We live right on eastern shore of Lake Huron, 3 1/2 hours west of Toronto and 3 1/2 hours north of Detroit, MI. If the winds blow you our way, don’t hesitate swing by. You’ll always have a place to stay with us.
Take care, my friend. I look forward to tracking your progress daily.
Matt Halsted
Good luck and fair sailing Brother!
I was a BM2 / Diver on the Polar Sea from ’78 to ’81. Got off around April of ’81, after we broke down in the ice and the mission became PSDP (Polar Sea Drift Project).
Been a lot of years pass since then, I don’t recall you, we may have just missed eachother on Pier 36, or my 52 year old memory isn’t what it used to be. 🙂
I loved every bit of my time in the Coast Guard, but when my 4 years was up, it was time to go. Though, I have to admit…. if they’d allowed me to stay on ice breakers, they might have had to get me out of the Coast Guard at gunpoint.
I’ll keep up with you on your site.
and again
I wish you fair sailing and good luck.
hal
Oh Tommy, I’m so happy for you!!!! And excited too. Each morning, with my cup of coffee, I open your website with great anticipation to see how you and Captain Lem are doing and where you’re at. I love seeing the pictures, also. This is so wonderful. I’m telling everyone I know about your website and adventure. You’re like the Pied Piper leading us along on your icy water trail.
THANK YOU for keeping the blog updated. Zig-zaging like this will make the guys in the motorhome go stir crazy! I hope Lake Superior shows you how beautiful it is in a calm way.
Take care
Dan
Captain Tommy,
It was a pleasure speaking with you about your adventure. You should continue to sail around to Homer Alaska. We will be there in August working on our new ‘home.’ Plus it is connected to the road system and you can pull the Capt’n Lem there. We will be following your adventure. Fair winds, smooth seas, and good consequences.
Tommy!
There is nothing in the world more beautiful than sunset at sea… your photo is gorgeous! I am so thrilled your sailing dream has come true, and so honoured that you are sharing your adventures with us all. Your writing is so descriptive and beautifully lyrical, it is a rare treat to read. Best wishes to you for your whole voyage. Fairwinds shipmate…
What a pleasure it is to have made your acquaintance. I’m with you all the way. Keep the spirit Tommy, from Cornucopia, WI
Tom;
Have been following you almost daily. I will admit that the arrival of a new grandson (the first grandchild!) diverted my attention somewhat. All is well in Maine. All is well in Boston. Hell, all is well everywhere!
Wayne Roberts
Being able to go where ever the winds takes you. Literally. Is there a better definition of freedom?